On October 2, during Paris Fashion Week, the scene was set (yet again) at the Château de Vincennes, a monstrosity of medieval architecture on the outskirts of Paris, for their spring summer 27 collection. Hernandez said, “The idea of the old world and the new world coming together.” Ultra-modern design set against old-school stone. Inside, architects Casper Mueller Kneer built a two-tiered circular arena of white scaffolding and sheer fabric, inspired by the 16th-century anatomical theatre in Padua, so the models circled close to the audience instead of marching down a straight line. “We wanted to build a show space that explored the unique energy of a stadium, arena, or theatre,” the pair said.

The designs took the classics (tailored pants, long flowing dresses, sheer skirts) and gave them a very modern, very Loewe twist. Much of it bordered on gorpy, with a slightly Demna-at-Balenciaga energy, especially when it came to the sunglasses! McCollough listed their New England youth and a ’90s spirit among the influences, and you could feel it in the plaid, the polos and the sporty anoraks. The 1960 suede blazer came back too, reworked in caramel.