"Seduction is the pillar on which this house is built. This time I felt like pushing it further."

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Tom Ford’s Saucy Spring Summer

2 October, 2026

Words by:

Sarah Palmieri

Haider Ackermann put on one hell of a horny show for Tom Ford's Spring Summer 2027 collection at Paris Fashion Week.

Out of the darkness struts a devilish-looking model in a perfectly tailored suit. He’s donning Dahmer-esque glasses and a white silk scarf framing his hairy chest, like a baddie off to mass.

Haider Ackermann, you saucy, saucy man, you know just how to make a girl blush.

So began Tom Ford’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, shown on the evening of October 1 at Place Vendôme in the heart of Paris. It was a rendezvous of what Ackermann does best: silks, sequins, leather and lots of skin. If sex appeal hadn’t already crossed your mind, a soundtrack of moans layered over cinematic violins made it very clear what the collection was going for.

This is Ackermann’s fourth outing since he took over the house, and he arrived with credentials to spare. He was born in Colombia, trained at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts and has run his own label since 2004. He was artistic director of Berluti’s menswear and did a guest couture turn at Jean Paul Gaultier, so he has long been fashion’s well-known master of a beautifully draped, slightly undone silhouette. That’s exactly the sensibility Tom Ford’s house was built for.

Demna’s Gucci leans into an almost ironic idea of sex appeal. Ackermann does the opposite: sleek, sophisticated, effortless. His tailoring plays on what’s left to be desired, with low Vs, sheer shirting and pointed-toe stilettos, black on black on black. This collection left much to the imagination… actually, very little.

It was all very noir, dripping with sensuality, a thick drama that momentarily made way for a buzz of colour: blues and light hues, trench coats, bright pink g-strings, long-sleeve silver leotards. Pinstriped black-and-white suiting! Briefcases! All of it far more office-to-sauna than office-to-beach, if you know what I mean.

Bold reds turned up first in the lipstick, then in the brooches, then in the floor-length gowns (one worn by Alex Consani, whose prowess had me gagging). The feeling of Nocturnal Animals, one of Tom Ford’s gorgeous films starring Amy Adams and Isla Fisher, ran its way through the entire show.

But of course, this was spring/summer, and unlike plenty of other runways, Tom Ford welcomed the swimsuit. Cut-out, gravity-defying and all about the body. I’m not sure what impressed me more: the sheer brilliance of his designs, sculpted and thoughtful, or the rolling six-packs every model on a Paris runway is apparently adorned with.

Tom Ford may no longer be the reigning prince of his brand, but Ackermann can take his prized sensuality and make it oh so sophisticated. “Seduction is the pillar on which this house is built. This time I felt like pushing it further,” he said in his show notes. “I am not interested in provocation. I am interested in the risk of being free.”

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