Out of the darkness struts a devilish-looking model in a perfectly tailored suit. He’s donning Dahmer-esque glasses and a white silk scarf framing his hairy chest, like a baddie off to mass.
Haider Ackermann, you saucy, saucy man, you know just how to make a girl blush.
So began Tom Ford’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, shown on the evening of October 1 at Place Vendôme in the heart of Paris. It was a rendezvous of what Ackermann does best: silks, sequins, leather and lots of skin. If sex appeal hadn’t already crossed your mind, a soundtrack of moans layered over cinematic violins made it very clear what the collection was going for.
This is Ackermann’s fourth outing since he took over the house, and he arrived with credentials to spare. He was born in Colombia, trained at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts and has run his own label since 2004. He was artistic director of Berluti’s menswear and did a guest couture turn at Jean Paul Gaultier, so he has long been fashion’s well-known master of a beautifully draped, slightly undone silhouette. That’s exactly the sensibility Tom Ford’s house was built for.