Thirty years into the game, the brand has well and truly established itself as an auteur of the perfectly cut jean, which may or may not come with a trompe-l’œil string of pearls or a perfectly dirty mud wash. Johansson is still at the helm, and he’s the only original member left.

And so, to mark the great celebration, the brand turned to the great Nan Goldin: East Village icon, activist, and the photographer who made a career out of turning the camera on the people she loves.

If you don’t know Goldin’s work, think of it as a diary kept with a camera. She grew up outside Boston and moved to New York in 1978. There she photographed herself, her lovers and her friends in the middle of real life: in bed, in bars, in drag, in love and in trouble. She first showed the images as slideshows in the nightclubs and bars of the East Village and Times Square, set to everything from Nina Simone to the Velvet Underground. Those slideshows evolved into The Ballad of Sexual Dependency, around 700 candid colour photographs spanning roughly 1979 to 2004. The work also became a record of the many friends she lost to AIDS. In her  words, the pictures are “fragments of life as it was being lived.”

In the late ’80s she organised around the AIDS crisis. In 2017 she founded P.A.I.N. (Prescription Addiction Intervention Now), taking on Purdue Pharma and the Sackler family over the opioid crisis, staging protests at the museums that had taken their money. That fight is chronicled in Laura Poitras’s Oscar-nominated documentary All the Beauty and the Bloodshed (2022).